Apples Vs. Oranges – Details, Details, Details….
Some key questions to Ask:
• What are you getting for your money?
• How complete is the engine?
• Who is actually doing the assembly and testing of the engine? ASE Master Certified?
• How long has the company been in business not just building engines? Many companies with Bad Raps close doors & open under “New Companies”
• What is the brand name parts being used? Trust us they’re not all the same!
• Do they have references?
• How many engines do they actually sell in a year? One or two?
• Does the company actually answer their phones, return calls or emails.
Many are more than willing to sell you something but when the first problem arises they are no where to be found!
Time tested and proven components cost a bit more for a reason. Most can appreciate this but the too good to be true deals are usually just that.
Engine Factory prides itself in offering a great product at a fair price, excellent customer service with a track record to prove it.
THE FOLLOWING IS A LIST OF ITEMS THAT WE TEST FOR DURING THE LIVE RUNNING OF YOUR ENGINE, REMEMBER YOUR ENGINE WILL BE INSTALLED ON OUR TEST STAND AND SET UP TO RUN JUST LIKE IT WOULD BE IN YOUR CAR. THIS MEANS A RADIATOR, FAN, EXHAUST SYSTEM, ETC. ARE ALL HOOKED UP, THE ENGINE IS THEN STARTED AND RUN FOR 45 MINUTES, EVERYTHING IS ADJUSTED, CLOSELY MONITORED, AND VIDEO TAPED, WE CHECK THE FOLLOWING.
# 1 OIL LEAKS CHECKED
FRONT HARMONIC BALANCER AREA TIMING COVER GASKET
OIL PAN AND DRAIN PLUG REAR MAIN SEAL
REAR CAM PLUG OIL FILTER HOUSING
ALL EXTERNAL OIL PLUGS INTAKE MANIFOLD END SEALS
HEAD GASKETS VALVE COVERS DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING AND GASKET
# 2 COOLANT LEAKS CHECKED
ALL FREEZE PLUGS AND BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS WATER PUMP AND GASKETS
HEAD GASKETS INTAKE MANIFOLD AND GASKETS
THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND GASKET ALL HOSE CONNECTIONS
# 3 FUEL LEAKS CHECKED
FUEL PUMP AND LINES , CARBURETOR
ALL FUEL LINES FITTINGS, AND CLAMPS
# 4 VACUUM LEAKS
INTAKE GASKETS ALL MANIFOLD PIPE PLUGS
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM ADVANCE INTERNAL ENGINE VACUUM LEAKS
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM
# 5 THROTTLE RESPONSE
500 RPM TO 1500 RPM
1500 RPM TO 3500 RPM
3500 RPM TO 5500 RPM
TEST FOR ANY THROTTLE HESITATION
# 6 IDLE QUALITY AND CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUST IDLE MIXTURE SCREWS ADJUST FAST IDLE MECHANISM AND SPEED
CHOKE OPERATION ADJUST IDLE SPEED
# 7 OIL PRESSURE COLD AND HOT
TEST OIL PRESSURE DEAD COLD, USUALLY AROUND 75 PSI AT 2000 RPM
TEST PRESSURE AT 100 DEGREES
TEST PRESSURE AT 190 DEGREES
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN COLD AND HOT – HOT OIL IS USUALLY AROUND
20 PSI LOWER, THIS IS PERFECTLY NORMAL.
# 8 COOLANT TEMPERATURE TESTS
CHECK TO BE SURE ALL AIR POCKETS ARE REMOVED FROM BLOCK
CHECK WATER PUMP FOR PROPER CIRCULATION
TEST FOR ANY EXTERNAL LEAKS
CHECK TEMPERATURE AT ALL 4 CORNERS OF ENGINE
TEST FOR PROPER BLOCK AND HEAD COOLING
# 9 VIBRATIONS
EACH CYLINDER IS BALANCE TESTED
FLYWHEEL IS CHECKED FOR PROPER APPLICATION AND BALANCE
HARMONIC BALANCER CHECKED FOR PROPER APPLICATION
CHECK FOR SMOOTHNESS THROUGHOUT RPM RANGE
# 10 DISTRIBUTOR TIMING
ADJUST INITIAL TIMING THIS IS DONE WITH VACUUM ADVANCE OFF
CHECK AND ADJUST CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE WEIGHTS
CHECK AND ADJUST VACUUM ADVANCE
CHECK FOR PROPER ADVANCE AT 3000 RPM, USUALLY 35 DEGREES WITH VACUUM ADVANCE DISCONNECTED
# 11 STARTER AND FLYWHEEL
CHECK FOR PROPER STARTER MOUNTING BOLTS
CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT OF STARTER INTO FLYWHEEL
CHECK STARTER DRAW ON HOT ENGINE
CHECK FOR TRANSMISSION ALIGNMENT DOWEL PINS
CHECK FOR PROPER CRANK PILOT SIZE, OR INSTALL PILOT BUSHING
# 12 EXHAUST PORT TEMPERATURES
THIS IS IMPORTANT, PORT TEMPS SHOULD BE SIMILAR. A COOL PORT COULD MEAN A TIGHT VALVE, CROSSED WIRE, VACUUM LEAK, WEAK VALVE SPRING, ETC.
CENTER EXHAUST PORTS USUALLY BURN HOTTER, THIS IS NORMAL
# 13 GENERAL NOISE LEVEL
WE CHECK FOR NOISY VALVE ADJUSTMENTS OR MISALIGNMENT.
ENGINE FACTORY SPENDS A LOT OF EXTRA TIME HERE ADJUSTING AND ALIGNING THE VALVE TRAIN TO WORK IN PROPER HARMONY, WHICH RESULTS IN YEARS OF DRIVING PLEASURE, AND MORE POWER.
# 14 OPTIONAL ITEMS WHEN PURCHASED
ALTERNATOR OUTPUT, SYSTEM SHOULD CHARGE AT 14.2 VOLTS
POWER STEERING PUMP, WE TEST FOR PROPER PRESSURE AND LEAKS
WE CHECK FOR AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR PULLEY AND CLUTCH ALIGNMENT
SERPENTINE BELT AND V BELTS ARE CHECKED FOR PROPER TENSION AND ALIGNMENT
#15 TROUBLESHOOTING PROBLEMS OR Potential PROBLEMS
Unfortunately we find new parts out of the box occasionally are defective, whether it be damaged in packaging, flawed casting or perhaps the manufacturer has a batch
of defective items. Sometimes you simply don’t know what to expect until the engine is tested first. There have been many instances where we test fire an engine and
discover things. Some examples: Distributor advance weights locking up, Carburetor linkage bent, Carb. accelerator pump leaking, Casting flaw in the Heads or Intake,
Flywheel out of balance, balancer out of balance, Roller Rocker tolerances out of whack, Thermostat housing warped and leaking, Valve cover to Rocker interference,
Freeze plug weeping coolant, Excessive clearances, Too much Interference. The list goes on, fortunately we nip this in the bud prior to being a problem.
# 16 OVERALL APPEARANCE
EVERYTHING IS CHECKED FROM THE OIL PAN TO THE AIR CLEANER
PAINT, PACKAGING, PROPER WARNING LABELS ETC.
IN TOTAL IT TAKES US ABOUT 5 HOURS TO HOOK UP, TEST, ADJUST, AND VIDEO TAPE EACH TURN KEY ENGINE. BUT WE DO IT BECAUSE WE KNOW IT IS THE ONLY WAY TO SEND AN ENGINE TO OUR CUSTOMER SO THAT THEY WILL HAVE TOTAL CONFIDENCE ON THAT PRODUCT BEFORE INSTALLATION. THESE ENGINES ARE BEING SHIPPED WORLDWIDE SO IT PROTECTS US AS MUCH AS IT PROTECTS YOU.
Here are typical “extras” that tally up to hundred and even thousands more than what we already include:
• Air Cleaner
• PCV and Breather
• Braided Fuel Lines
• Fuel Pump
• Water Pump
• Thermostat and Housing
• Ignition System (Distributor, wires, coil and spark plugs)
• Hot run testing the engine with a Video for documentation
• Serpentine Billet Pulley Kits with Accessories (Included with all our Cobra Kit Packages)
• Instructions and labels for an easier installation
Knowledge has power so ask the right questions. Everything on our website is spelled out on what our engines include. Others that try to sell a generic product but the fine print reads differently.
Be cautious of the lure for big Horsepower and Torque numbers. It can look impressive on a piece of paper but when your spending more time under the hood rather than actually behind the wheel it loses its appeal fast! The fact of the matter is Low end power out of your car or truck is more important than what the horsepower numbers are @ 6000 RPMs. We setup most of our engines to achieve its torque & HP to kick in below the 4000 RPM range so you experience the power without mashing the throttle to 100 mph.
Read through our website or speak to one of our sale techs to gain some insight in making an informed engine buying decision
Almost all of the times when you buy a generic engine the parts need to be changed over; this increases the chance of having a problem with the motor. It’s not easy to customize things on a larger scale. When an order is placed everything is documented and then put in writing via email or fax so both parties know what they are getting in the deal.
Most of our engines are being shipped hundreds to thousands of miles away making it even more important that it’s done right the first time. On top of that we provide the opportunity to dress up your motor to give it some more flare. Engine Block and Ignition Wire colors are an option along with Polishing and Chroming. The Polished billet pulleys really make the engine look awesome and run more efficiently too!
Ever hear anything like this We specialize in oil changes but we specialize in engines too. I can build you an engine at half the cost with twice the horsepower . Bubba will fix you up real good. I think weve done something like before? If you hear anything like this run as fast as you can LOL!! Buying an engine shouldn’t be treated like buying a carton of milk. There are differences.
Are they ASE certified? Are they are things to all people? How much do they really know about engines? Are they just hyping you or helping you? Don’t be afraid to check with the Better Business Bureau. Its important to our sales staff and techs to deliver what was promised. There’s a reason Engine Factory has been in business since 1969.
There have been circumstances where people make an investment to buy a $8,000 motor trying to save and use an old radiator, slipping transmission, rusty fuel tank & lines, electronics etc. Usually sooner than later this will create a cause and effect situation, the engine overheats or perhaps doesn’t have the power it should. Going with a new radiator, mounts, rebuilt or new transmission, improved exhaust system chances are you’re going to have a maintenance free motor for years to come.
Achieving that classic muscle car rumble under the hood is what most of us are after, but too much of a good thing can be make an engine a nightmare to tune. With a very wild camshaft profile the engine can’t complete the entire combustion process so with the valves are still open, this causes a backfire effect into the intake runners which doesn’t necessarily create more power. Engines need at least 14-15lbs. vacuum to run power brakes, with today’s more efficient hydraulic roller camshafts this is achievable to make great torque. Good idle quality and crisp throttle response. Whenever you’re at the fence with a choice between a smaller or larger camshaft we recommended always going tamer
especially for a cruiser. Engine Factory has a selection of custom camshafts that are setup with matching components Cylinder heads, compression, pistons, induction and the list goes on. Having the right amount of lope but still have ample vacuum to run accessories is the ideal situation.
Vacuum and idle characteristics of an engine:
“SMOOTH” idle is as smooth or almost as smooth as a stock OEM engine and has high manifold vacuum, 18 inches and higher. These engines work well the stock exhaust system and torque converter but all engines benefit from good headers and performance mufflers.
“MILD” idle has a little rumble and has very good manifold vacuum, 16 inches and higher. These engines also work nicely with the stock exhaust system and torque converter.
“LOPEY” idle is a well defined lope as in the lope or gallop of a horse, and will have good manifold vacuum, 14 inches and higher.This is pretty much the “Muscle Car” idle of most cars of the 1960′s and 1970′s. This is the largest cam recommended for the stock torque converter.
“CHOPPY” idle is a very noticeable performance idle and will have a somewhat lower manifold vacuum, 9 to 12 inches. These engines need headers and a torque converter in the 2400 to 2800 RPM range. This is basically a rougher “Muscle Car” idle.
“ROUGH” or “RADICAL” idle is rougher than “Choppy” and is tolerated by performance type people, however most people are happier with the Lopey or Choppy idle type camshafts. With the “Rough” idle cam, the vacuum will be under 8″. Also this engine will need headers and performance exhaust system. A 2800 RPM or higher torque converter is recommended. A vacuum canister or electric vacuum pump may be necessary.
Generally speaking Engine Factory provides engines in the Mild to Choppy Idle Range. These engines can be used for everyday to Show n Go Vehicles.
An engine thats well built, machined, has high grade parts, assembled properly & maintained has a much higher success rate. The best built engine wont last unless the supporting line of parts like an efficient radiator, transmission, exhaust system, computer, accessories are not up to speed. When an occasional problem arises, what separates the good companies from the not so good ones is how they handle them. If its an outside source caused an engine to go bad we dont cover it, period! We do stand behind a defective part due to poor workmanship or directly from the manufacturer as per our warranty, not everyone does this! Most of Engine Factory Engines are covered for one year / Unlimited Miles.
When dealing with an engine that has hundreds of moving parts everything needs to work in unison. When they don’t, the weakest link will fail. We’ve notified Manufacturers of product flaws many of times..
“Well it’s ready to go out of the box, Oh but there’s just a few things you need to add “:
This easily adds $3,500-$4,000 to the price!
Engine Factory does not play the bait and switch games that go on. Parts that are supposedly “As good” are simply not. No name brand parts IE – Cylinder heads, Roller A forged Mahle piston compared to a Hyperuectectic piston are not the same quality. The cost difference is often a 1/3 the cost for the “similar” piston. A good budget piston But we’re more for longevity and ulitimately customer satisfaction.
Another way to keep costs down:
Cheap stamp steel valve covers
Overseas Distributors or distributors that require an added box
No name brand cylinder Heads
Overseas “equivalent Intake Manifolds
Cheaper internal parts – Pistons, Bearings, oil pumps etc.
The major manufacturers pump millions of dollars on quality and control which is of course part what your paying for. The knock off parts obviously do not put the time or investment into it so with weaker castings or tolerances that are not as close.