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Frequently Asked Questions

Which Engine Combination is right for my Vehicle?
This is one of the most common questions our technicians answer. We will ask you a list of questions that will help point you in the right direction. For example: A. What is your car or truck being used for? B. How often do you drive your vehicle? C. Is idle quality important to you? Do you have a budget your working with or don’t want to exceed? These are just a few of the questions we will address to make your buying decision the proper one for you. Perhaps you have an early Mustang with a 5.0 liter that has high mileage and is tired. You are looking for something you can use as a daily driver with good low end torque plus midrange horsepower for highway use and your budget for a complete turnkey engine is under $7,500.00.

Engine Factory offers several variations of the 302:

We would recommend the 302 / 350 HP version as being a good overall fit for this customer. It is worth mentioning though that all of our engines are very streetable. Just that some are more aggressive than others. How much Horsepower? We all can get caught up with Horsepower bragging rights. What we want and need are two different things. Take for instance a Cobra Replica. The Weight to Horsepower Ratio of these car’s is incredible, better than a Ferrari, Porsche and Lamborghini at a fraction of the price. Something with a classic muscle car sound, street friendly, tear a little rubber, handles nicely and still gets decent gas mileage, is accomplished with an engine in the 350-400 Horsepower Range. Step up to a little more aggressive street performance engine then our stroker Small block Engine packages in the 400-450 HP are great too, anyone of these motors will get the adrenaline going. Quick revving, a little more rumble, smoke the tires and gobs of power! Wanna run with the big boys then take a look at our Street / Strip Windsor packages. 500+HP 427w have crazy power. You can roast your tires on demand. Surprising still street friendly, definitely more attitude, more rumble, scary fast and more conducive for a street / strip use.

Which Engine to Choose?
We have categorized our engine packages based upon vehicle type and performance levels. two most popular setups for the Ford Mustangs and the Cobra has been the 302 and 351w Based engines. There are of course the Big Block engines – 390 and 427FE’s. The 5.0 Coyote litre engine is now in the mix too. The reason for the 302 and 351w being as still most popular is they are good happy medium. Lightweight, nice power gains. run cool,. Putting a Ford into a Ford is still important to the purist, most of the chassis are set to accommodate the small block Fords too. The FE engines are still popular for some manufacturers like ERA and Kirkham. These engines are bigger, heavier and create more heat. The 5.0 Coyote is newer technology but a tight fit for restomods and some retrofitting involved.
What upgrades to choose from?
If you have any ambitions to supercharge, turbocharge , running nitrous or road racing then notify us. Some upgrades to the internals like gaskets, compression, induction can be upgraded. How much Customizing is Allowed? Henry Ford was famous for the statement, “You can get any color so as it’s Black”. He was a smart man especially when working with economies of scale. The internal recipes of our engines we prefer to leave alone. The parts work in harmony and sometimes changing something throws off the equilibrium, but this doesn’t mean were not flexible. In regards to the Cosmetics we offer some different options. The standard engine color is the traditional Ford Blue. Black Blue or Red is an option. Ignition wire colors are available in Blue, Black, Red and Yellow, standard color being yellow. Polished options available too.
What's the lead time for ordering?
You get when you get. Just kidding. Some of our hotter selling engines we try to inventory to ship within 3 weeks for delivery. Some other engine / tranny combos that are more involved allow in the areas of 6-8 weeks.
Transmission Questions and Recommendations?

Most of the restomod cars and Cobras are setup for a 5 Speed Transmission, so we will concentrate on this. There are a 6 Speed Manual Transmissions that are becoming more popular but sometimes require more retrofitting. Overall we recommend going with either a T5 or Tremec TKO series trans. They fit the best, have a 5th gear overdrive gear and are strong enough to handle some pretty big horsepower. In general the T5z Trans. is is sufficient for an engine up towards the 350-400HP range. Beyond this the TKO0-600 Trans. has a generous torque capacity of 600lbs. We do sell engine / tranny packages as an option to our customers for the convenience of one stop shopping. We’re not a Transmission dealer and don’t promise to have the lowest prices but from a convenience standpoint may be a good fit for you.

Fuel Injection or Carburetor?

Traditionally we’ve sold a lot more carbureted setups than EFI but it is clearly evolving. For a very clean and traditional appearance, minimal wiring , installation time, and cost A Carbureted engine is a great way of going. We setup the fuel mixtures, idle, timing and tuning. In the past fuel injection hookup and tuning was difficult , this has changed as of recently. Engine Factory offers a plug and play Fuel Injected Atomic EFI Engine. It has the appearance of a retro look Carbureted engine but is definitely not carburetion. The new Fast EFI has taken a quantum leap in technology for aftermarket fuel injection systems. It is the easiest to install of any full featured system, The features the Engine Management System (EMS) mounted directly onto the throttle body thereby eliminating 80% of the necessary wiring harness. The throttle body assembly includes the EMS, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, idle air control, and four 62lb. /hr. port style injectors. The linkage on the side of the unit is identical to a Holley 4-barrel and the throttle body has overall dimensions that are the same as a 4150 style Holley. We install a standard Air Cleaner on top. Despite the compact size of the EMS, it is still laptop programmable but for most vehicles the standard program is suitable. The EMS is self-learning which you can start the car up after installation, drive it around for 20 or 30 minutes and it dials itself in to the perfect tune. SEE OUR COMPLETE EFI ENGINE PACKAGES. This system will run approx. $2,000 more than our carbureted engines. So the question is which way to go Fuel injection or Carbureted? We try to sum it up like this: If you plan on driving your car once in a while, show and go, or on a occasional cruise than a Carbureted engine will work great for you. If you put a lot of miles on your car, drive in different altitudes, want a smoother idle, emissions is a concern and drive a lot in colder climates than Fuel injection is probably a better way of going. You can get 10-15% better gas mileage. This will pay the difference in initial cost.

What else is needed to complete the installation?

There is plenty of miscellaneous items to make your car Road Worthy, Trying to Piece Meal together an Engine shouldn’t be one of them. Lets focus on the popular Replica kit cars what’s left are Wheels, paint and Transmission items needed to finish once you purchase the Complete Engine from us. Our engines come complete with all the accessories, pulleys back to rear flywheel. We provide the engine with a DVD of your engine running, instructions on where the fuel mixtures, ignition timing ect have been set. Stickers and labels on some of the installation basics. Most of our engines are shipped with oil as well. A few items that are needed water and oil temp temp switches and a throttle cable bracket. Most kit suppliers will furnish the headers, engine mounts, wiring harness and sensors to complete the job. We don’t supply a starter with the Ford engines mainly because it doesn’t mount on until the transmission bellhousing is bolted on first. We do offer a mini high torque starter as option, or when you purchase one of our Engine / Transmission packages. We provide some instructions with our motors to give you some indication as well.

How long can the engine sit in storage while building my car?

In a perfect world we like to think things can be completed in a month or two. But Going at it solo and on a part time / weekend project can take many moons to complete as many of you can attest to. So to answer the question about how long the engine can sit in storage, the answer is for a long time. We have customers need to get the engine ahead of time to mock things up and then pull the engine out again to put aside. We have a lot of heavy duty lubricant on the bearings and load areas for the first start up. If an engine sits for over 6 months then fogging the upper cylinders with some lubricant like CRC or WD-40 will do some good. We don’t recommend pulling the distributor and priming the oil pump. We do this ahead time, plus it defeats the purpose of purchasing a Turnkey Engine.

302 , 351w, Big Block or Mod. Engine. Which is the best Combination?

302

The 5.0 litre Engine has been a venerable part of Mustang & Cobra Replica Industry for 25+years. Lightweight, Plentiful, can be upgraded to achievable impressive Horsepower, fits very easily in chassis, lightweight and overall pretty reliable. Carbureted or Fuel Injected. For someone who wants to use their car as a cruiser with some extra kick we would suggest going with the 302 / 350 HP or 375 HP engine package. To increase the torque capacity of the motor, stroking it to achieve 331 or 347 cubic inches is the way to go. The “stroker” is impressive with 0-100mph times being very fast! Usually when trying to attain horsepower beyond 425+ we would suggest going with the 351w based motor. The 351w has thicker webbing, larger main caps and Head bolts and doesn’t have to work as hard to generate Torque.

351w

The 5.8 litre engine is a great way of going for a number reasons. This motor shares the same engine mount and bellhousing bolt pattern as the 302. It’s a couple of inches wider than the 302 so the headers are different otherwise still makes for a great fit. It weighs only 70lbs. more than the 302 which isn’t anything significant. Apples to Apples to a 302 it’s a capable of handling more Torque and Horses being that the block is more reinforced. Our 351w / 400 Horsepower engine is probably the best bang for the buck we offer. The 351w Stroker combinations we offer – 393w, 408w, 418w and the 427w deliver up to 550HP. This is just amazing output from a Naturally aspirated small block V8!! So for anyone who wants get a mean sounding engine with the benefits of the small block this is the way to go!!

460 Big Block Engine

The Big Block Ford engine without a doubt delivers huge torque at low RPMs and can sound pretty mean. From a practicality standpoint we don’t recommend it though. Weighs a lot more than a small block, poor fuel economy, Tighter fit for engine and Trans. tunnel, more cost, car is harder to handle and steer. The small block ford these days can deliver some phenomenal power without needing to go as a Big Block.

5.0 Coyote Motor

The 4.6 Mod engine has been out for quite a while but the Coyote motor is conducive for restomods. Will fit early Muscle cars but a Much tighter fit with more retrofitting of the chassis.


Will my factory Transmission withstand the added horsepower?

This is a concern for people wanting more power but are worried that their factory tranny is not up to the job. Most of our engines as are not for all out racing. That is why we usually say that factory transmissions will bolt up and work fine for cruising . While the engine is pulled out of your vehicle it never hurts to freshen things up with a shift kit and / or slightly higher stall speed converter. As you get more and more radical with an engine it’s probably worthwhile to upgrade your transmission. As with anything the weakest link is always going to go first. So lets say if you have an original engine putting out 175 HP and you are moving up to a 400 + HP street beast. More than likely your Transmission needs to be upgraded. Different Gear Ratios can also have a huge affect on low end power.

Can I swap to a different or larger engine than what I currently have?

This is a yes or no answer. Whenever your swapping out to a different or larger engine some questions that would need to be addressed.

  1. Will all your existing parts ex: Pulley, Brackets, Transmission, exhaust etc. switch over to the larger engine?
  2. Are you committed to spending the extra labor time and expense to making the transition work if it is not a direct bolt in swap?
  3. Will you see a significant gain in horsepower in making the change?

The good news is that there are some engines that can interchange very easily. One very popular upgrade our customers do with early mustangs having 289s or 302s is switch over to a 351w. This is pretty much a direct bolt in with the proper setup. Speak to our Sales Tech staff regarding swaps and they can give you some input.

What are the advantages of buying a Ford Crate Engine from Engine Factory?

When you purchase a turnkey engine from Engine Factory you will receive a fully dressed assembly. Here is a list of what most of our engines come with:

  • Brand New Casting Aluminum Edelbrock Heads
  • New Stainless Steel Undercut and Polished Intake & Exhaust Valves
  • Hard exhaust valve seats for unleaded fuel
  • Three Angle Competition Valve Job
  • CNC Ported Matched Intake Runners

 

*Note: Included with COBRA Kit package Engine Factory knows the pride our customers take in restoring their cars. Thats why our engine builders pay special attention to detailing the overall appearance of your motor. To insure quality and performance, each engine is test run for approximately 1 hour. During this time the cam is broken in, all valves are adjusted, the carburetor is adjusted and the ignition is timed. All systems are checked to be sure that there are no water, fuel or oil leaks under running conditions. When you receive your engine, it is ready to drop in place.

  • Customers name, year, and type of vehicle
  • Type of engine that we are supplying
  • Style of tin ware, oil pan, timing cover, valve covers
  • Brand and type of cylinder heads
  • Valve size, spring size, combustion chamber size
  • Compression ratio, and recommended octane
  • Details about your PCV system, breather, and baffles
  • Style and brand of your intake system
  • Carburetor brand and CFM size
  • Type of fuel pump, and fuel lines
  • Details on how to wire your electric choke 1 wire
  • Details on 1 wire distributor set up
  • Specs for initial, centrifugal, and vacuum advance
  • Details on flywheel and harmonic balancer
  • Details on water pump, and coolant flow
  • Recommended items that you should replace
  • Hoses that should be replaced, and air burping
  • Explanation of how cooling system works
  • Live running of your engine for one half an hour
  • Test for oil leaks
  • Test for fuel leaks
  • Test for vacuum leaks
  • Test for proper temperature at all 4 corners of engine
  • Test for oil pressure cold, hot, and @ 3000 RPM
  • Adjust carb, distributor timing, choke, and fast idle
  • Perform a cylinder balance test
  • Review thermostat housing, and coolant flow
  • Review type oil to use, and change recommendations
  • Review alternator, pulleys, and wiring procedure
  • Explain heat indicators attached to block
  • Explain proper break in procedure
  • Explanation of owners and mechanics responsibilities
  • A contact person that you can call if problems occur
  • A list of parts that you should use to maintain engine
  • A sincere thank you for your business

When you purchase the complete engine package from the Engine Factory basically everything is there for you. Some of your responsibilities would include:

  • Exhaust System
  • Engine Mounts
  • Transmission
  • Front Pulley System (Some exceptions Apply)

 

  1. Aluminum Cylinder Heads can together to save as much as a 100 lbs.
  2. Have superior flow characteristics with larger intake & exhaust runners
  3. Hardened interlocking valve seats which allow use with Unleaded Fuel
  4. Stainless Steel 1 piece high swirl valves with 2 positive oil control seals
  5. Have Bronze guide inserts for better heat transfer
  6. Most are street legal and interchange with factory Cylinder Heads
What are the advantages of a Stroker engine?

Stroking an engine is basically increasing the engines stroke length by converting over to a longer stroke crank. Take for instance the 302 Ford. A very popular conversion is to go to a 347. The factory stroke of the crankshaft is 3.0 inches to make it become a 347 the stroke is extended to 3.40 inches in length. You need to utilize a different length connecting rod also. Whenever an engine is given more leverage and cubic inches it is going to deliver more torque which is exactly what every street performing vehicle needs. Engine Factory can supply you a stroker with proper machining , balancing and notching of the block to make it trouble free. The nice thing about this set-up is that all the modifications are done internally so your mounting patterns and accessories will all be identical . On the technical end of things, we have some people ask us if there is any oil control problems on the stroker engines. There is a misconception that if the Piston Pin protrudes into the oil rail area that the motor will suck down oil. This is a totally wrong assumption. Most every top Piston Manufacturer designs there stroker pistons this way. They modify the pistons to be more rigid and there oil control is excellent with the correct Rings used.

Can I switch over from Carbureted to a Fuel injected engine?

This is definitely a common question. Changing over to Fuel Injection has become easier than ever before. We offer a Complete Plug n Play EFI engine that has a classic look with Modern day performance. All the Harnesses and Sensors included. The ECU is actually built into the Throttle Body. More Details on the Fast EFI System Here. We test run the engine and make the adjustments necessary to get the engine up and running. What’s nice about it is there is a limited amount of hookup, everything is clearly labeled and you don’t need any special skills to get your engine up and running. Very similar hookup to a Carbureted engine as far as wiring goes. Fine adjustments with a Laptop can be done if you desire. The fuel line kit and fuel pump is also included. Engine Factory has tested several other Fuel injection kits only to find much more complex setup time, restrictions on the camshaft, distributor and a lot more wiring and harnesses and fine tuning. The Fast EFI engines we offer will run approx. $2,500 more than our Carbureted engines so this is something that you need to weigh out. We suggest if you drive your vehicle only once in a while, maybe a weekend warrior then a Carbureted engine can work just fine for you and keep some cost down. The new Carbs are improved from the early years. But if you put a lot of miles on your car, drive in different climates, elevations, get a little better gas mileage or just stand out from the crowd then converting over to the Fast EFI engine can be a great way of going. Going over to a 87-93 Style Mustang Conversion EFI engine does require more time and expertise.

Do I need a high priced Ignition System to go with my performance Engine?

We have found that most of the Aftermarket Distributors make elaborate claims of significant Horsepower gains. This is simply not true. Unless your driving consistently over 6000 RPMs it can be a waste of money. The electronic distributor we provide with quality coil will deliver plenty of spark to give excellent throttle response.

Do I need Forged Pistons, Crankshaft or Connecting Rods for my Performance Engine ?

This depends upon the use of the car or truck. For daily driven grocery getters or even weekend warriors, most engines kept under 5500 RPMs will hold up very well without making the investment into Forged pistons, Rods or the Steel Crankshaft. So for most street performance enthusiasts we usually go with a Hypereutectic piston which transfer heat easily and you can still very tight clearances. ARP quality rod bolts used for added insurance. The factory crankshaft will not break unless there is a cause and affect circumstance like for instance a balancer bolt left loose, a flywheel not installed correctly or main cap bolts improperly torqued in place. The aftermarket makes cast steel crankshafts which are around 25% stronger than original nodular cranks which we generally use for engines delivering up to 500 HP. When engines are running a supercharger or nitrous we would recommend going with Forged components. Engine Block Dimensions ENGINE LENGTH HEIGHT WEIGHT 302 27-1/2 Inches 20-3/4 Inches 18-3/4 Inches 351W 27-1/2 Inches 23-3/4 Inches 21 Inches

 

What's the Difference between a Short Block and a Long Block ?

SHORT BLOCKS HAVE THE FOLLOWING INCLUDED.

Lower Block, Crankshaft, Connecting Rods, Pistons, Rings, Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings, Camshaft and Timing Set occasionally. We prefer not to sell a short block mainly for the fact that it requires a lot of expertise to finish assembling. Proper Torque readings, Clearances, Alignment of Valve Train, Sealing, Matching of parts, Blueprinting etch.. The average shady tree mechanic will most likely encounter problems.

LONG BLOCK ENGINES HAVE THE FOLLOWING INCLUDED.

Lower Block, Crankshaft, Connecting Rods, Pistons, Rings, Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings, Camshaft and Timing Set, Lifters, Gaskets, Cylinder Heads, Valve Train, Oil pump and sump. This also can require many labor hours of cleaning, rebuilding and reassembling of components like your oil pan, timing chain cover, valve covers, induction system, electronics, pulleys etch back onto the engine.

Our Turn Key Engines Include The Following:

  1. NEW CARBURETOR
  2. NEW ALUMINUM INTAKE MANIFOLD
  3. NEW ELECTRONIC DISTRIBUTOR
  4. NEW SPARK PLUGS TORQUED AND GAPPED
  5. NEW 8 MM SILICONE IGNITION WIRES
  6. NEW IGNITION COIL
  7. NEW CHROME AIR CLEANER
  8. NEW VALVE COVERS
  9. NEW OIL PAN
  10. NEW TIMING COVER
  11. NEW HARMONIC BALANCER
  12. COMPLETE P.C.V SYSTEM
  13. GROMMETS AND BREATHER
  14. NEW OIL FILTER AND HOUSING
  15. NEW DIPSTICK AND TUBE
  16. NEW WATER PUMP
  17. THERMOSTAT AND HOUSING
  18. NEW FUEL PUMP
  19. NEW FUEL LINES
  20. HOT RUN TESTING OF ENGINE
  21. THE VALVES FULLY ADJUSTED
  22. DISTRIBUTOR TIMING ADJUSTED
  23. CARBURETOR BEEN ADJUSTED
  24. ENGINE HOT TESTED FOR LEAKS
  25. OIL PRESSURE TESTED COLD & HOT
  26. AUTOMATIC CHOKE ADJUSTED
  27. NEW AUTOMATIC FLYWHEEL INCLUDED
  28. INSTALLATION VIDEO INCLUDED
  29. VIDEO OF YOUR ENGINE RUNNING
What's the difference between a 289, 302, 351w, 351c, 400m, 460???

The objective of this article is to distinguish the differences between the Ford Windsor, Cleveland, FE, 351M/400 and the Big Block . For starters the 289 was produced from ’63-’68 and is almost identical to the 302 except for the stroke and camshaft which is either Mechanical or Hydraulic. A 289 has a 4.00 x 2.870 Bore and Stroke while the 302 has 4.00x 3.00. The 302 manufactured from ’85 and up has roller camshaft which Engine Factory uses exclusively. The 302 is more readily available, has better internal parts and can generate more power for less money! We offer Horsepower ranges of 275HP, 350HP, 370HP and up to 425HP all on pump Gas. The 351 Windsor is the biggest of the small block Ford engines. It has a Bore and Stroke of 4.00x.3.50. It was made at the Windsor, Ontario plant – which of course giving it’s name. The 351 is a beefier block than the 302/289 but has the same bore spacing and bore diameter. The deck height is taller and the Main journals larger. The Windsor has been in production since ’69 and still in production. Engine Factory offers a wide selection of the Windsor engines. We offer different stroke combinations (393,408,418w and 427w) making this a true Street Beast! The 351 Cleveland is in a class by itself and entered the scene in 1970 until 1974. It has canted valves and multi-groove keepers, hydraulic cam, pedestal -mounted rocker arms that are retained with cap bolts. Two types of heads where made they were the 2V and 4V. The 2V heads have open chambers with rounded ports, while the 4V has quench combustion chambers with larger rounded intake and exhaust ports. A 351c Cobra-Jet appeared in ’71 with 4-bolt main caps. A 351C Boss also came out in ’71 with 4V type chamber head with pedestals machined to accept a 302 Boss type valve train and mechanical cam. In ’72 open chamber heads were used with a flat top piston and the name changed to 351C HO. Being that the Cleveland is over 30 years old, they are becoming a rare find and hard to find parts. For this reason we interchange it with the 351w which share the same bellhousing and engine mount patterns. The Exhaust manifolds, Front brackets and Pulleys do need to be changed out. Engine Factory offers the complete March Performance Pulley kit as an option on a swap like this.

Windsor 351 V-8 Engine

The 351 Windsor’s radiator hose attaches to the radiator and connects directly to the front of the intake manifold via a water neck.

  • Valve cover is held in place by 6 bolts.
  • Radiator hose connects to water neck on the front of the intake manifold.

 

 

Cleveland 351 V-8 Engine

The 351 Cleveland’s radiator hose attaches to the radiator and connects directly into the front of the engine block. It makes a 90 bend from the radiator to the engine block.

  • Valve cover is held in place by 8 bolts.
  • Radiator hose is a 90 degree hose that connects directly to the top front of the engine block.

The 351m and 400 have the same bore spacing as the 302/351C/351W but a taller block for a longer stroke and rods. They were considered the next generation of the 351 Cleveland. They share the same cylinder head bolt pattern as the Clevelands but most of the external bolt ons were different. The 400 started production towards the mid 70’s where compression was dropped down to around 8 to 1 compression. This of course affected Horsepower numbers. They had the 460 big block bell housing pattern to use larger clutches for greater torque capacity, which is why some people opt to swap out to a 460 Big block. The exhaust bolt pattern, pulleys, accessories and Brackets are not the same though. The 351M was introduced after the 400 to fill production demand for a 351 size engine. They were not known for their big performance by enthusiasts but a good engine when setup properly for low end grunt torque. Another distinction between the 289/302/351w engines, they use a front Aluminum Timing Chain cover and water exits the intake manifold face of the cylinder head through the intake manifold to the radiator. The 351C/351M/400 engines use a flat tin front cover instead and the block extends out to cover the timing chain. The water exits the block face. The FE engines are the 352/360/390/427/428 engines and are different from all other Ford engines. The 390 is set up basically the same as the other engines but are balanced internally as oppossed to externally on the 428. Some of the 427 engines are overhead cam and are extremely powerful yet rare especially the side oiler versions. The 428 isn’t much different but isn’t an overhead cam plus a rare find. Engine Factory simplifies matters and offers the 390FE. It will interchange with either the 352,360 or even the 428. We provide this engine package with the Cobra Jet Aluminum Heads, these alone generate an awesome amount of torque. We also provide a Stroker version of this that comes to 426 cubic Inches. The last of the Ford engines are the Big Blocks 429/460. 429’s were available from ’68-’73 and named Cobra-Jet, Super Cobra-Jet, and Boss. Basically the 429 was a wedge engine with hydraulic cam, 2-bolt main caps, and 2V or 4V carbs. The 460 is a stroked 429. The CJ had a hotter cam, larger carb, bigger port heads and valves. The SCJ had 4 bolt mains mechanical cam, adjustable non-positive stop rocker arm studs, stamped rockers arms push rod guide plates. The pistons are forged aluminum . The Boss had aluminum heads and hemi combustion chambers. Engine Factory offers the 460 Big block with the Edelbrock Aluminum Cylinder Heads. Good for running on the street where more broad power band is needed. An easy to identify on the Fords is to count the number of retaining bolts on the valve covers. This should be the same for cars and trucks. 5 bolts = FE Block 6 bolts = 289/ 302/ 351Windsor 8 bolts = Cleveland / Modified

You can reference this as well:

2 bolts the engine is a: 239/256/272/292/312 (produced from 1954 to 1964) 5 bolts the engine is a: 332/352/360/361/390/391/406/410/427/428/ (FE engine) 6 bolts the engine is a: 221/260/289/302/351W 7 bolts the engine is a: 429/460 8 bolts the engine is a: 351C/351M/400

Can I get 400 Horsepower out of my Original 289 Ford Small Block?”

Squeezing a “legitimate” 400HP out of a little standard bore 289 means putting in some serious mods. The engine would need spin high to get 400HP which means cam, porting, heads, headers, flo and decent aspiration. Components like a steel crank; high end rods, carburetion, etc. preferred for a “legit” 400HP SB motor that will stay together . Here is a typical example…… Block prep (bake, tumble, magnaflux and chase all holes) – $120. Bore & Hone with torque plates – $250. Line Hone Block – $120. Square Deck Block – $120. Custom oil galley mods (grind/drilling) – $60. Passage cleaning, plugs, paint – $80. Cam bearing install – $40. Balancing – $175. + $75. per piece mallory (used 4) = $475. Intake Port Matching – 180. Short block assembly with spec sheet and cam shaft degreed – $400. Hot Run test Engine – $500.

Other parts:

Ported Heads – $1500. Roller Rockers – $525. Lunati Rods – $900 Steel Crank, pins, slugs, rings – $1600. Cust. Roller Cam / S-Lifters/Pushrods -$450. Blue Thunder 2×4 plus twin 750 holleys / linkage – $1600 Water pump – 160 HV Oil pump – 60 Billet timing Set – 200 Heavy Duty Damper – 250

That’s $9,000+. in PARTS not including additional work to get up and running.

One of our 302 or 351w will be a more cost effective and efficient way of going. Your not dealing with a 40 year old block either. We utilize a Roller camshaft and Aluminum cylinder Heads which makes it lighter and faster. [/sws_ui_toggle] [sws_ui_toggle title=”What makes Engine Factory different from the Mass Marketing Mail order Engine Companies?”

1. Mass Marketed Engines are available in one size fits all.

This certainly makes life easier for the distributor but not to the customer. After reading the fine print there are frequently a lot of modifications to the engine needed to fit your vehicle. For instance: Oil Pan, Oil Screen, Dipstick and tube, Flywheel, Water Pump, Fuel Pump, Harmonic Balancer, Valve Covers, Intake Manifold, Distributor, Thermostat housing etc. What“s the purpose of buying an assembled engine if you need to disassemble it and build it again? When you order an Engine Factory we ask the right questions specific to your vehicle so the engine is setup right the first time!

2. Mass Marketed engine companies dont sell a truly Ready to run Engine.

Bear in mind they may come complete with the essentials but look at a typical list of parts needed to make it a truly Turnkey Ready engine: Carburetor or Fuel injection Kit (We provide the computer, Harness and sensors) Throttle return spring, Air Cleaner, Intake Manifold, Distributor, ignition wires, coil, spark plugs, fuel Pump, Fuel Lines, Pulleys with the Alternator, Power Steering or A/C compressor. Its important to make an apples to apples comparison.

3. Does your engine look any different from any different from anybody elses?

When you pop open the hood having an engine that has been tailored to your needs is a great feature. Engine Factory offers our engines in a range of different engine block colors, ignition wire colors, pulley kit options and polished packages. This isnt easy selling a customized crate motor but we know it really makes a difference to our customers.

4. Do they really know about engines?

Often times when speaking to a salesman over the phone you’ll get a price and then often a reply Do you want the engine or not? Thats it!! Engine Factory deals solely with Engines so we dont try to be everything to everybody. With thousands of engines produced and sold over the years, we’ll work with you to find the right engine combo, ask the right questions and offer suggestions. We’ll spend the time to go in detail on what you’ll get, not get and guidelines for an easier installation. Put our 40 years of experience to work!! Unfortunately personalized attention is considered more of a luxury to most companies these days.

 

5. Are you buying Horsepower or Heartache?

We’ve read our share of articles in a Hot Rod Magazine about a 1000 Horsepower Supercharged Twin Turbo engine hooked up with a bottle of nitrous. For all intensive purposes these cars are useless for a daily driver. Be cautious of the lure for big Horsepower and Torque numbers. It can look impressive on a piece of paper but when youre spending more time under the hood rather than actually behind the wheel it loses its appeal fast! The fact of the matter is Low end power out of your car or truck is more important than what the horsepower numbers are @ 6000 RPMs. We setup most of our engines to achieve its torque & HP to kick in below the 4000 RPM range so you experience the power without mashing the throttle to 100 mph. Our objective is to provide an engine that is easy to install, fun to drive, responsive to the throttle and deliver years of driving pleasure.

 

6. Is the Engine Live Run Tested under Real World Conditions for 45 Minutes?

Most engines may be spin tested for Oil pressure but that’s about it. When you buy an engine from the Engine Factory each Ready to Run engine purchased from us is Hot run tested. Checked for Oil pressure, vacuum problems, coolant leaks, Fuel leaks, Timing is Setup, Fuel Mixtures, Idle and another 25 other steps involved. Ask before your Purchase, It’s your Money, Why take a chance? We have revolutionized the Crate Engine Industry and continue to do so. [/sws_ui_toggle]

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